It is highly recommended that you spend a long weekend in and around Girona, in the Catalonia autonomous community of Spain, if you are looking for a genuinely world-class culinary experience. At the other end of the price range, there are excellent markets and a thriving tapas scene full of Catalan specialties like Arròs Negre (cuttlefish in squid ink) and Calçots (spring onions grilled over an open fire and dipped in Romesco sauce). The city’s restaurants have eighteen Michelin stars between them. A half-hour’s drive will take you to the Mediterranean and its bounty of seafood, and one of Spain’s best historic hotels, Hostal de la Gavina, is situated right next to the water.
Girona Food Tours’ Gina Guillen is incredibly knowledgeable about both the culinary delights and the history of Girona. She will show you to the favorite snacks of many of the city’s forebears, from the Sephardic Jews who played a significant role in the mediaeval community to the Iberians she refers to as “Spanish Vikings,” on a half-day walking and tasting trip that costs €79 per person. The culinary highlights of Gina’s tour include cold meats at Mercat del Lleo, also known as the Lion’s Market, which include an unexpectedly sweet candied sausage cooked with sugar, cinnamon, and lemon. Xuixo, a local puff pastry filled with something akin to crème brûlée, is said to have been invented by a circus performer in Girona in the 16th century.
Girona’s history dates back to pre-Roman times and evidence of the past is well- preserved. There’s a walking trail which links the surviving sections of the old city walls, and thanks to the raised elevation it is an ideal way to get your bearings and some impressive views across Girona. Exploring on foot, you should also visit the Call Jueu, the best-preserved mediaeval Jewish quarter in Europe, which was boarded up and left empty after the Spanish Inquisition in the hope that its former residents would one day return; the Catalan Gothic cathedral, which at one stage of its history was used as a mosque; and the 12th century Benedictine church of Sant Pere de Galligants, built in a Romanesque style.
The red iron foot bridge connecting the two riverbanks was constructed by none other than Gustave Eiffel, and the vibrant riverside homes of Cases de l’Onyar provide for especially picturesque scenes. He allegedly constructed this bridge to serve as a demonstration of concept for the ironwork framework he would later employ in the Eiffel Tower.
Situated south of Girona and offering a stunning view of the bay at S’Agaró, Hostal de la Gavina is the crown jewel of the Costa Brava. The most glamorous visitors have been drawn to this classy hotel since it opened in the 1920s; the walls are covered in sepia photos of Elizabeth Taylor, Rudolph Nureyev, Laurence Olivier, Salvador Dali, and Orson Welles. It feels like a private home, with tastefully decorated rooms and suites housed in an appealing assortment of low-rise structures arranged across vast gardens; the discreet yet attentive service only serves to reinforce this impression. La Gavina’s classic rooms, many with balconies overlooking the gardens or the Mediterranean Sea, start from €280 per night, including breakfast.
Michelin-rated At Hostal de la Gavina, Chef Romain Fornell is in charge of three restaurants, with Candlelight serving as his flagship establishment. The sound of the pianist floats out into the courtyard on a bright summer evening as diners at a dozen tables enjoy their meal outside under the stars. If you and your date are feeling upbeat, there’s plenty of room for you to jump up and dance amongst the tables. Although Candlelight’s menu is seasonal, items like tuna, langoustine, and pigeon are always highlighted. The set menu is €130, plus an extra €65 for the suggested wine pairing.
Many of the stalls at Mercat del Lleo have stools where you can stop for tapas and a drink of wine for more informal eating; alternatively, you may put up a decadent picnic to eat alfresco. However, the obvious decision is to stop at La Curreria de La Cort Reial, a modest bakery providing what are arguably the best churros in Spain, if you’re craving morning coffee and a pastry. Take a seat on one of the square’s walls, enjoy the summer sun, and feast on this culinary paradise.
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